Tuesday, September 28, 2010

In the Tike-Tike-Tike-Tike-Tike Room

In the Tiki Tiki Tiki Tiki Tiki Room
In the Tiki Tiki Tiki Tiki Tiki Room
All the birds sing words and the flowers croon
In the Tiki Tiki Tiki Tiki Tiki Room
Welcome to our tropical hideaway, you lucky people you!


- Disney



Tikehau is what's called an atoll. Not an island, but a ring of coral around a lagoon. It's really quite something to see from the air. We expected to be able to see from one side of the lagoon to the other once we were on the ground, but it was actually too wide for that.



Unfortunately, word got out that Linette pilfered a couple extra bottles of Manoi oil from the housekeeper's cart in Bora Bora. We've been assigned to this very special overwater bungalow at the new place.



It's a little more remote than we anticipated, but the resort did provide a kayak so we could get to and fro, weather permitting. That small dot off to the right is our room.



But seriously,(despite snagging the extra manoi) we've managed to score another lovely spot here on Tikehau (Tick-e-how).


















As with the other overwater bungalows, this one has a nice viewing glass built into the floor...























...a view from the shower that makes you want to linger...



...and the most enthusiastic welcoming committee yet...




















and...OMG, yes, that is a shark - crusin' by just off the porch!

Saturday, September 25, 2010

In An Octopuses Garden

I'd like to be under the sea
In an octopus' garden with you.

- The Beatles

















After 2 days of wishin and a’hope-ing for optimal snorkelling conditions, the Gods of Bora Bora rewarded us with our best weather yet – and on the day we had reservations for a “reef discovery” tour! The tour was billed as including four snorkelling stops, featuring coral gardens, lots of fish, manta rays, and eagle rays.

We were met at the hotel dock by a tan and handsome Frenchman in his sleek 8-passenger speed boat. It wasn’t long before the excitement began...2 manta rays (likely a mother and juvenile) in the shallow waters off Le Meridien Hotel.



Keeners that we are, we were out of the boat and drifting over the deep blue sea for several minutes before we realized that everyone else was still getting their gear on! Normally, that would’ve been no big deal but this spot was prime shark habitat. A healthy coral reef featuring a steep drop off to an open channel 40 to 60 feet deep! It was also home to a “cleaning station” for manta rays. These 6-12 feet wide, plankton-eating giants come each morning to have their mouths picked clean by small reef fish who have evolved specifically for this task. So there we were, floating and trying not think of what might be swimming around below us.

The rest of the group (9 of us including the guide) eventually caught up to us. Shortly after, the guide spotted 3 manta in the dim depths below. We watched quietly as they glided along in a slow motion ballet along the white sandy bottom of the channel, and were awestruck when one of the larger rays decided to ascend to inspect Mark! The ray was within 3 feet of the surface and even closer to Mark. Of all the times (and there have been many this trip!) for my underwater camera not to work! ARRRRGH! I guess some memories just have to be lived.

The coral gardens here can be beautiful but also dangerous. Even the briefest contact can result in a nasty scrape, as 2 of our fellow tour people found out.


The density of fish here is just amazing! Thankfully the camera decided to play along later in the day.

















As if all of this wasn’t enough, our last stop was another drift snorkel. Et voila! We were treated to the vision of a school of eagle rays, which more resembled a flock of birds as they swooped and dipped along the channel floor, about 30 feet below us.



We reluctantly dragged our tired and sunburnt bottoms back on to the boat and endeared the kidney-jarring, wave crashing ride back to the hotel, all smiles. The scenery above the water was lovely too.

What an adventure, even sans sharks!

We finished our last day on Bora Bora with a hasty trip into the village of Viatape, across the water from our hotel. Linette finally found just the right pearl pendant. It wasn’t this one - which we fondly refer to as "not even if it would please you my darling" - LOL


Mark got a couple of T-shirts, which at this point in the laundry service he needed as much as he wanted.

Tomorrow we leave for the last leg of our journey – the atoll of Tikehau. We will have several fond memories of Bora Bora, including the ever changing view of the mountain...





...double rainbows...



...and getting absolutely drenched running back to our room last night! Although it’s been sunny here, it’s also been tremendously windy. That stormy night back on Moorea was a cake walk compared to here. Let’s hope Tikehau’s as peaceful as everyone says it should be.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Hula Girl at Heart

Photographs show she is lovely
Her bare feet are a work of art
Her fragrance speaks of frangipani
Yes she's still a hula girl at heart

- Jimmy Buffett




The trade winds did eventually blow us from Huahine to Bora Bora as planned. (They pretty much never let up the whole time we were there - but I'm getting ahead of myself!)

I fear we may have given the wrong impression of Huahine. It was very beautiful in it's own way. We've come to appreciate that more as we've continued to other islands and atolls. Here is the view from our porch during a sunny moment...
















...and at twilight



The shells and their inhabitants were plentiful and interesting...









As was the sea life, just offshore (a type of brown seaweed that seems to be everywhere here and a sea cucumber - there were literally hundreds of them!)























We really did enjoy our time there...

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Hinano



It's the beer out here - you know...the local offering that's cheaper than water?

Mmmmmmm!

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

A 3 Hour Tour (well, maybe 4)

Just sit right back
And you'll hear a tale
A tale of a fateful trip,
That started from this tropic port,
Aboard this tiny ship.

- theme from Gilligan's Island



The weather grew progressively less worse so we felt increasingly somewhat confident enough to book a day-long lagoon excursion with a local family. We were picked up by a gregarious and (thank God) multi-lingual young Polynesian woman and driven to one of her family's two tour boats in the tiny village of Fare (fair-eh). When she wasn't laughing or singling along with her ukelele, she regailed us with native legends and interesting information about the island and its people. Her father played Skipper to her Gilligan.

Fortunately, the little boat was fast enough to outrun the black storm clouds that had been stalking us. We stopped for snorkelling and squeamishly watched our intrepid guide clambour down in to a draining ditch to feed chunks of raw fish to a swarm of three-foot long, blue-eyed sacred eels.





















Then it was on to a small pearl farming operation in the lagoon before we stopped for lunch at our host's coconut plantation house on the eastern-most muto.

The guest were enlisted to help set up and prepare lunch which included poisson cru. This is a local speciality dish consisting of small pieces of raw mahi-mahi mixed with lime juice, fresh squeezed coconut milk, salt, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Thank goodness, no cilantro. We had been avoiding this dish on the advice of our travel medicine doctor but it was so obviously fresh and exceptionally clean (and we were hungry!) so we took the plunge...and it was Deeeeeee-licious!


The hundreds of mullet fish swarming around our beachfront dining facility thought so too. Mostly they really seemed to like the look of Mark's meaty calves and thighs. Although eating with the fishes was cool, the highlight of the day was the drift snorkel we did after lunch. We hopped out of the boat about 200 meters off shore and let the current sweep us over coral heads and resident fish for about a kilometer. The water quite deep enough for sharks, but we didn't see any today.


Tomorrow we head for Bora Bora - and not a downpour too soon!

Friday, September 17, 2010

Huahine, Day 4

More rain.

Rum's almost gone.

The TV shows only French channels.

Have finished all the reading material we packed.

Mark has resorted to binge eating from the mini-bar in our room.

Have only each other to talk to as all other guests marooned on the island parler seulement en francaise.

On the upside, we've been adopted by a local border collie cross, who is content to sit between us on our porch for hours at a time. We have named her Sneaky Tiki.



Unfortunately, the fresh pain au chocolate for breakfast and generously portioned gourmet meals served at lunch and dinner are hard to work off that way. The food here is out of this world. Gilligan and his crew never ate so well as we have been doing.



Bon appetit!

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Licence to Chill

Let the rat race run, roll around in the sun until
Trouble turns funny, songs get sung
A little bit of money, the night's still young
Leave me alone I've got a license,
A license to chill

- Jimmy Buffett



We awoke this morning to overcast skies and mercifully light winds. The hurricane force gale that came up yesterday evening had died off at some point during the night, somehow not managing to take the thatched roof of our bungalow with it. The wind was so bad at times, we actually contemplated packing a small grab-and-go bag, just in case!

After 5 lovely days in Moorea, we were ready to set off in search of our next adventure – the island of Huahine, which is described in our travel book as “immaculately tropical”, “exotically lush”, an island to visit for “extreme calm and communing with nature”. In case you didn’t know it either, that’s code for “it rains a lot here so expect to sit around doing a lot of nothing”.

Huahine is exactly what we needed.

There have been many moments of amusement already on the trip – the airport code for Huahine being one of the best so far - “HUH”.


That’s pretty much how we hope to be feeling when we leave here for Bora Bora on Saturday.

Our new abode, the Tiare Vanira beachfront bungalow at the Relais Mahana resort is absolutely darling. On the 30 minute flight over from Moorea, Mark warned me not to expect the same level of luxury as we’d had at the Hilton. I’d have to say that this bungalow was actually nicer!



Mosquito patrollers included!

And when the sun shines (and it has for 20 to 30 minutes at a time), it turns the lagoon waters the most beautiful shades of turquoise, azure, and aquamarine. And the sunsets...well...they’re awfully nice too.